Thames Pathway 5: Battersea to Putney

The winter morning greets us with crisp air and golden sunlight as we make our way from Queenstown Road Station to Battersea Park. Setting off from Chelsea Bridge, the Thames gleams below, its surface catching the sun's rays while Freya trots ahead, her nose twitching with excitement at countless new scents. Pam and I follow behind, our breath visible in the cold air, grateful for the clear day despite February's chill.

Albert Bridge

Albert Bridge soon appears in all its Victorian glory, the delicate white ironwork earning it the affectionate nickname "The Trembling Lady." I point out the historic sign that once warned troops from Chelsea Barracks to break step when crossing – their synchronised marching could set the entire structure wobbling. Though modern engineering has since stabilized the bridge, the sign remains as a charming historical footnote.

The riverside path leads us to Ransome's Dock, a hidden gem tucked away from tourist routes. This former industrial site, once vital to Battersea's role feeding London, has been thoroughly gentrified into upscale residences. I can't resist sharing some historical trivia with Pam. 'Did you know …?'

'No,' she replies before I can continue.

'I haven't told you yet.'

'I know. But every time you say "Did you know," it means you just looked up some obscure bit of history that I know I don't know.'

'Well, this place used to store ice shipped directly from Norway, in underground ice wells.'

'And I suppose they used it to keep the Thames cool in summer?' My wife's ice dry humour takes me by surprise. Perhaps these walks are bringing out a different side to her.

We continue past the imposing Albion Riverside, a Foster + Partners development whose curved glass facades mirror the water's ever-changing patterns. The modern structure triggers a moment of contemplation about the layers of history beneath our feet. How many lives have been lived along this stretch? How many stories and people have been washed away. Being a lifetime Londoner, I find myself increasingly susceptible to such nostalgia as I age.

One of two bronze swans, by Battersea Bridge

'Look at those,' Pam says, interrupting my musings. Two bronze swans stand poised by the riverside, necks perfectly arched as they eternally gaze at the water. Created by Catharine Marr-Johnson in 1984, they bring a touch of natural elegance to the urban landscape. Pam bends to scratch Freya's ears, noting she might have chased them if they were real – though a past encounter with geese at Keston Lakes left our dog with a healthy respect for large waterfowl.

St Mary's Church appears next, its Georgian architecture dating back to 1777. The Grade I listed building has witnessed centuries of riverside transformation from industrial revolution to digital age. Running my hand along the weathered stone, I muse, 'Imagine if these walls could talk.'

'They'd probably tell us to stop gawking and buy a ticket,' Pam replies, her dry wit continuing to sharpen.

St Mary's Church

The north bank offers glimpses of Chelsea Harbour (which isn't actually in Chelsea – a quirk of London's shifting boundaries) and Lots Road Power Station, its disused chimneys standing like exclamation marks against the sky.

Lots Road Power Station

Our attention shifts as the distinctive whir of rotor blades announces a helicopter descending toward London Heliport, operational since 1959. We watch the sleek machine touch down, discharging passengers who walk with unmistakable self-importance.

Fancy a quick trip around the city?' I ask Pam.

'I think I prefer keeping my feet on the ground.'

Thirst eventually leads us to The Waterfront, a riverside pub that welcomes dogs. Soon we're enjoying glasses of wine while Freya sprawls contentedly at our feet. Refreshed, we continue past Wandsworth Bridge to reach The Spit, where Bell Lane Creek and the River Wandle join the Thames. We pause to watch the currents merge and swirl in nature's ancient choreography.

Approaching Wandsworth Park, we spot colorful houseboats bobbing gently in the river.

'Could you live on one of those?' Pam asks.

I briefly romanticise the lifestyle. Waking to rain pattering on the cabin roof, the gentle rocking motion, London's skyline viewed through a porthole, before reality intrudes with thoughts of cramped quarters and lurching vessels. 'No.'

Pygmalion : Wandsworth Park

At Wandsworth Park, Pam points out David Wynne's 'Pygmalion' sculpture, depicting the mythical sculptor embracing his creation as she comes to life. There's something fitting about finding this artwork here; just like Pygmalion's statue becoming flesh under his devoted touch, the industrial landscape of the Thames has been transformed by human vision and persistence. (Ok, I'm pushing my luck a bit with that one!)

Our journey today ends at Fulham Railway Bridge, which we cross to reach Putney Bridge tube station. As trains rumble overhead, we take one final look at the Thames. The setting sun paints the sky in vibrant oranges and pinks; the river's story flows ever onward.